Inspired by the DIY farmhouse table design by Ana White, I decided to try this project out. It’s a great project for an ambitious beginner and because it’s a “rustic” design, it’s a pretty forgiving project.
(P.s. If you like this post, check out my Rustic Farmhouse Bed)
There are tons of similar designs that you can find all over the internet – Pinterest is a great place to start for ideas – and in the trendy shops like Restoration Hardware. I took the primary design from Ana White and modified it slightly to fit in our kitchen.
There are many farmhouse table plans online, but few that show you how to correctly build the table to accommodate the natural expansion and contraction of the tabletop due to humidity, and fewer still that show you how to do it without specialty tools that cost thousands of dollars.
I’ve written this plan for those who would like to use easily accessible construction grade lumber and are willing to make a modest investment in tools that will be very versatile additions to the DIY workshop. In addition to the basic power tools (miter or chop saw, skil saw, drill, etc.), you’ll also want to have access to a table saw, a dado blade set, and a handheld or standard router with a 1/2″ or larger straight bit.
Downloadable PDF
I’ve also created a printable PDF version of this DIY farmhouse table plan that also includes the accompanying bench, which you can purchase for $5 (it’s about 27 pages in all). It’s all the info from the blog posts (including the bench), but I’ve compiled it for easy printing and included shopping lists, cut diagrams and helpful pictures.
[Here’s how my table has held up after 5 years of abuse!]
Wood Supplies
I made this table out of construction grade pine lumber from Lowes. Carefully select your wood to make sure it’s straight, paying special attention to the 2x6s these will be your tabletop. Lay them out on the store floor to see if there’s any cupping, bowing, or twisting. I’m yet to find perfect wood at a big box store and can tolerate a slight bow, but don’t use wood that is cupping or twisting unless you have access to a jointer or planer and are prepared to mill your boards. Unless you plan to paint it or distress it, you’ll want to get boards with a nice grain pattern.
- 6 – 2x4s @ 8′
- 8 – 2x6s @ 8′
- 5 – 2×2s @ 8′
- 3/8″ wood dowel rod
Hardware & Supplies
- 2 1/2” wood screws (50)
- 2 1/2” pocket hole screws (50)
- Tabletop Fasteners
- Wood Glue
- Sandpaper (60, 120, and 220 grit)
- Wood filler or plugs
- Wood conditioner (to help get an even stain on pine)
- Stain
- Polyurethane
- 400 grit sandpaper (or fine steel wool)
- Tack Cloth
- Pain Brush
- Cotton Rags
I’m also assuming you have some kind of work bench to use. If not, get a piece of plywood or MDF to lay on top of a couple sawhorses for a makeshift table. It will come in handy!
Tools
- Drill & 3/8″ and 1/2″ bits
- Router
- Table Saw
- 1/2″ Dado Blade
- Circular saw
- Electric Sander
- Miter or Chop Saw
- Kreg Jig
- Tape Measure
- Square
- Countersink drill bits
- Clamps
- Chisel
- Coping Saw
Main Table Dimensions
At this point, I’ll piece together the project the way I did it. While I walk through the cutting and assembling for the purpose of this plan post, in reality I cut everything up front and sanded all the pieces before assembling the table.
Also note that I use both wood screws and wood glue to assemble the table pieces.
Cut and Assemble the Table Legs
The key here is to cut and notch out each of your pieces together so they will fit precisely.
Also, remember that the legs on each side of the table need to mirror each other, so don’t assemble all 4 pairs exactly the same way. The top notch on the post in the picture to the left should always be on the inside of the leg post. That’s where the apron will sit.
When attaching the 2x4s together, use both wood screws and glue. I also used a countersink drill bit to get the screw below the surface and then fill in with wood filler.
Cutting the Bridle Joints
There are a couple of ways to cut the bridle joints. You can use a curcular saw and a chisel as illustrated in the pictures.
- Set the depth of your saw blade to 1 1/2” to accommodate the thickness of the 2×4.
- Check to make sure your saw blade is square to the saw. Use a speed square to do this.
- Measure the placement of your bridle joint and mark both edges at a width of 3 1/2” (I recommend keeping each set of leg pieces together so the joints match exactly).
- Using your saw, make a series of cuts through the joint.
- Using a chisel and a mallet or hammer, tap out the scrap wood.
- Use your chisel and sandpaper to smooth the inside of the bridle joint.
Using a table saw with a dado blade (as opposed to a chisel) just makes it a quicker process. Here’s a video illustrating the method:
Cut and Assemble the Table Base
The most important thing about assembling the table apron is getting it square. To make sure it is, measure it from corner to corner (creating an X with your measuring). If each corner to corner measurement is exactly the same, your good to glue and screw. Otherwise re-check all your board lengths.
Assembling the Table Top
A primary consideration for the table top is how to construct and attach it to the base in such a way as to compensate for natural expansion and contraction of the wood. The tabletop will expand and contract along the width of the grain so the breadboard ends need to be attached in such a way as accommodate movement without causing the tabletop to split or buckle. In this plan, I recommend specialty hardware to attach the tabletop to the base.
While you can certainly decide to attach the breadboard ends with pocket hole screws or dowels and glue to make a permanent joint, there’s a risk of damage to the tabletop. In this plan, I’m using a mortise and tenon joint, glued in the middle and secured with dowels, to allow for seasonal movement. This method will require a router and a table saw with a dado blade set.
First, assemble the 2x6s using glue and either pocket hole screws, dowels, or biscuits.
Cut the Tenons
Use a router to cut a 1/2” thick tenon, extending 1 3/4” on the breadboard ends, working on both sides of the assembled tabletop to carefully measuring the cuts. I recommend waiting to cut the 2x6s to length until after routing the tenon joint so that you can rest the router based on both sides of the joint for stability and control as illustrated in the linked video. Once the tenon is cut, use a circular saw to trim the waste ends.
Cut the Breadboard Mortise
To cut the mortise joints in the breadboard ends, use a table saw set with a 1/2” dado blade. Raise the dado blade height to match the depth of the cut (i.e. 1 3/4”), and then mark with painter’s tape the saw table at the blade end points where the saw will cut the wood. Then, use tape to mark the endpoints for the mortise on the breadboards themselves.
Beginning with the blade set low (i.e. 1/4”) begin making passes on the breadboard edge, raising the blade each time, until you cut the desired mortise depth. Then use the drill and a 1/2” chisel to clean each end of the joint.
Attach the Breadboard with Dowels
Attach the breadboard to the table top edges and then drill three 3/8” dowel holes completely through the mortise and tenon joint at 1” from the edge of the tabletop planks. The middle hole will be a permanent joint, but the edge holes will be moveable, “dry” joints.
Remove the breadboard ends and, using a coping saw, slightly elongate the two side holes lengthwise, being careful not to make the opposing width of the hole larger. Replace the breadboard end, lining up the dowel holes.
I have detailed instructions on how to attach the breadboard ends to allow for movement in the wood in my downloadable PDF.
Attaching the Table Top to the Base
Once I completed the tabletop & secured it to the base by turning the entire table upside down so as to accurately center the table base and attach it to the underside of the tabletop, it was time for the finishing work.
When attaching the tabletop to the base you also need to account for the movement. The best and easiest way to do this is with expansion brackets like these or you can use z-clamps with this method.
I’ve also used this type of expansion joint:
My finishing consisted of an initial coat of wood finisher, then stain, then 3 coats of polyurethane. A tack cloth is really helpful here as you’re preparing the surface for either staining or between coats of polyurethane. You’ll also want to make sure that you do your finishing in a dust free environment (or as close to it as you can get).
I started with sanding the entire table top again. Yes, I know I sanded each board individually, but wanted to make sure I smoothed out any differences between the boards once the tabletop was completed. Then added the wood filler and sanded again after it was dry. Clean up all the dust with a tack cloth.
Plan your finishing so that you can apply the stain immediately after applying wood conditioner. These 2 steps need to be done together. The wood conditioners that I’ve worked with need to have stain applied before the conditioners dry completely or else they won’t accept the stain.
Test out different stains on some scrap wood (make sure you use some wood conditioner first) so you can see what the final product is going to look like. If you’re married, I highly recommend agreeing with your spouse on the stain before putting it on! That will likely save you a lot of grief… sanding down what you’ve created so you “get it right this time.” Experiment with different colors and also with staining one color on top of another. You can get some pretty cool effects depending on what stain you put on and how long you let it sit before wiping it off.
Once the stain is dry, apply your polyurethane according to the directions. I used 400 grit sandpaper between coats. I should also mention that I used polyurethane on the entire table, not just the tabletop. A friend of mine gave me a great tip: For the last coat of polyurethane, consider wiping it on with a rag. This will get a very minimal coat and will dry quickly, minimizing the chance that a speck of dust may get on the table and mar the finish.
Here’s a picture of the final product:
If you like this plan, you can either print out this entire blog post or purchase my PDF print version for $5.
The print version also includes the accompanying bench as well as a handy shopping list, cut list and lots of diagrams of the project (it’s about 27 pages in all). You certainly don’t need it to build the table, but if you want a nicely formatted printout to use in your workshop/basement/garage and to take to Home Depot or Lowes when shopping for supplies, you might consider it.
Next project is a bench to accompany the table…
Also, below are pictures of the finishing products that I used. Minwax Early American 230 stain, the Cabot wood conditioner and the Minwax Polyurethane:
Thanks for checking this out! I’d love to hear about your table project, so please post a comment below!
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96 replies on “Rustic Farmhouse Table with Breadboard Ends – A Free DIY Plan”
Ed, how did you attach the breadboard ends to the table? Dowels? Biscuits? How did you account for the wood movement?
Hi Roger,
Thanks for the comment! I used dowels on the table in the plan, but I actually prefer biscuits over dowels. They’re so much easier to line up! I know a ton of folks use pocket holes and screw them in. As for the movement of the wood, that’s really going to depend on the environment where the table is. I’ve used one of these as our family kitchen table for years in a low humidity interior environment and haven’t had any problems with expansion/contraction. I also acclimatized my wood before building it and used a wood filler between the pieces that has some slight elasticity to it. My table is much more beat up from children growing up around it than from wood movement! That being said, if you’re in an environment that has big changes in the relative humidity levels, then you’ll see some movement over time and will likely have to do some minor wood filling in the gaps over the years. You’ll also want to use some Z brackets to attach the tabletop to the base. The real problem with wood movement is where the top attaches to the base and if it’s just screwed to the frame (which I originally did), then if the top as a whole swells, the table can get out of alignment and wobble a little.
I hope that helps.
Ed
Thank you for the prompt response and yes that helps.
I’m working on this table now and enjoying it. Seems my local store failed to have their 2×2’s marked right and I am using 1×2’s. Nothing too crazy, big question is how do you attach those outside 2×2’s (1×2’s) in my case to the outside of the skirt frame? The 2.5 inch screws are too long.
Hi Mark, Thanks for the note. It sounds like you’re talking about the 2x2s that are essentially trim pieces around the top of the apron just under the tabletop. I’d recommend just going with a shorter wood screw (1-3/4″ or 2″). The 2×4 is actually 1 1/2″ thick and the 1×2 is actually 3/4″ so you’ll want something less than 2 1/4″ so the screw tip doesn’t poke through. Since there will be a 3/4″ gap between the face of your 1×2 and the 2×4 table legs, you could (if you wanted) layer 2 1x2s together to the faces are flush assuming that you’re orienting the 1x2s so the wide face is against the apron. That’s not a structural suggestion, just an aesthetic one, but it’s likely that the trim pieces won’t really even be noticeable. Thanks again and send me some pictures when you get your project done!
Ed
HI,
I built this farmhouse table but my wood puddy that had been filled in between the wood is cracking. What can I do to keep this from happening. The wood ends have moved also. It’s like they grew. Everything was perfectly even.
Thanks
Hi Christina, thanks for the note. Sounds like you’re having a fairly typical problem related to moisture or humidity. The way to keep issues of wood contracting or expanding from happening is to keep the relative humidity consistent in the environment where your table is. Any changes will cause the wood to respond. Areas that typically have fluctuations would be basements, screened in areas, indoor/outdoor patios or porches and anywhere exterior, and in those types of areas, there’s not much you can do. Provided you can keep the table in an environment that is stable, I’d recommend a latex wood filler like DAP Plastic Wood which will resist cracking a little bit. If there are going to be fluctuations in the relative humidity and you can’t really do anything about it, I’d recommend a wood putty. Putties are typically oil based and tend to stay more flexible and thereby resisting cracking. Depending on how bad the cracking is, you can either go over it with one of those products or you can use a grout sander or similar tool to scrape out the cracked material and re-apply.
I hope that helps.
Ed
Ed – Thanks for the download for the farmhouse table plans – they look VERY helpful! My wife, however, really wants an 8 ft. table and I think these plans are for a 6 ft. table. Do you have plans for this table as an 8 foot?
Hi Van, thanks for the note! I’m glad you find the plans helpful. The plan is easy to modify for an 8′ length. The main changes are the lengths of the 2×6 tabletop planks, the base support stretcher and the apron stretchers (i.e. the 2x4s that support the tabletop) from 57 1/2″ to 81″. All of the height measurements and construction techniques stay the same. You’ll also want to add a couple additional 2×2 tabletop supports and space them out evenly along teh apron. I don’t have an 8′ version of the plan (although it’s a great idea to create one!), but I do have an 8′ SketchUp model if you’re familiar with that software.
Thanks & let me know if you have any additional questions. Good luck on the project!
Ed
Hi Ed,
I am planning to make my first Farmhouse Table very soon.
I am seaking some help from you. I am needing a table that is 38 1/2”x 60″x 30″.
I plan to use 2×4’s as that is the size of wood that I can get at the moment. My queastion
for you is how many 2×4’s would I need for the center of the table & how long would they
need to be cut?
Hi Holly, just to clarify your question, are you planning on using the 2x4s as the tabletop instead of the 2x6s on the plan? I think that’s what you’re asking, but want to make sure. And if so, are you wanting to frame the ends of the table with 2x4s also (the plan uses 2×6 “breadboard” end pieces) or just have table top boards extend the whole 60″ length?
Would you still use the dowel’s to make the table top or would you go with something else?
Also, did you screw in to the breadboard part of it when attaching the table? How far did the bread boards hang over the edge so that there’s enough room to sit on the end?
Hi Jon, You can use biscuits, dowels or you can forego both and just use pocket hole screws. As far as the breadboards, I recommend joining them to the tabletop and then attaching the entire tabletop to the base using z-clamps. This allows the tabletop to expand/contract with the relative humidity. If you screw the top to the base (a lot of people do that), you run the risk of some warping which can make the table a bit wobbly.
Also, the breadboards only overhang about 5″, but I’ve found the table is still quite comfortable to sit at even with the cross brace on the legs.
Thanks!
Ed
But for your first table you screwed from the base to the table top, correct? And that worked out for you? Thanks for your help!
Yes, I did. I have that table in an environment that is pretty controlled and I have had no problems with it (going on 7 years and 4 kids!). However it is definitely the case that wood responds to relative humidity and so definitely something to be aware of. Good luck with your project. I’d love to see some pictures when you’re done with it!
Struggling to find 2×8’s (pine) etc. at Lowe’s. Seeing a lot of white fir. Is that also okay to use?
Hi Jonathan, yes, you can use white fir 2x8s. That’s also a soft wood like pine and will work fine for the rustic look of the table.
Hi we build the table and it looks great but it’s wobbly. What can we do to fix this? My husband wants to LBrackets between the table and the base. Will this work or is there a better method.
Thanks
Kris
Hi Kris, sorry for the late reply. The holiday week has me a bit behind. 99% of the time, teh wobbliness is because of wood that isn’t perfectly square. And I don’t think I’ve ever gotten a 2×4 from a big box that is actually square! I would recommend using wood shims either on the bottom of the legs or in between the table top and the base. Best way to do that is to detach the top from the base and see if the base itself is wobbly (usually the wobbliness occurs after the top is secured). If it is stable, then place the table top on the base and visually inspect for gaps and shim them. You will not be able to screw the tabletop to the base and force it to be level, even if you use L brackets. L Brackets are a fine way to secure the top, but you can’t “force” the wood into being square.
Ed, I purchased your PDF plans through my wife’s account ([email protected])… how do I get the copy of the PDF file?
Thanks, Randy
Hi Randy, sorry about that! You should have received a download link to that email address almost immediately. Check the junk email folder and see if it’s there. If not, send me an email – [email protected] – from the address you want the download link sent to and I’ll send you another one.
Thanks,
Ed
Hi there, I am a retired carpenter and now I build rustic furniture for a hobby. I have built a lot of furniture from store bought material and it is hard to find enough nice true wood to build with. As such over time you discover a lot of tricks to help with wood movement and twisted material. If your table or bench has twisted, usually it will rock on opposing legs from movement from the top. One trick if it is not too twisted is to sand or cut one of the legs that seems to be shorter to match the one across from it { always on the short end of the table or bench} The table or bench will now sit flat and nor rock on two legs any more.
Mike
Thanks for the tip, Mike!
[…] Build this farmhouse table […]
thanks for your info and plans most sites dont do this ed
Thanks for the note and thanks for visiting!
Thanks Ed. Like your work. I always struggle with the bevel on boards when glueing side to side OR how much to round corners of boards. On the table you left the bevels – which I assume is part of the design of being a farmhouse. On legs I have seen others square boards so it is “seamless”
Is there a “Standard”rule of thumb?
Thanks again for sharing your work
There’s really not from what I’ve seen among both the DIY set and the people selling similar “rustic” furniture. It’s really a matter of preference and the look you’re going for and also where you’re getting your lumber. I purposely kept that rustic look and also wanted a plan that both looks nice and also can be built with a minimum of tools. If you’re getting your lumber at Home Depot or Lowes, it will generally all have rounded edges and you’ll need a joiner or table saw to trim the edges to get that seamless look.
Thanks!
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I really like your table and would like to build an outdoor version. I need the table to be able to be broken down and transported. I see the top can come off but can the base be broken down more so that it can be put into a station wagon? The table will need to be built in one location, taken to my in-laws and stored somewhere else in the winter and then brought back for use again.
Happy New Year and thanks for the note! You can certainly construct the base without gluing the cross beam & apron so that you could deconstruct it for transportation. You may want to consider using some larger screws (possibly even some bolts) on the cross beam if you will be disassembling it from time to time.
Hi Ed,
Thank you for such a terrific tutorial on building this table. I want to make this into an outdoor patio table and I would want an umbrella, so just wondering if I could omit the bottom middle piece in order to fit an umbrella base or would the table not be as strong and secure?
Thanks!
Hi Lindi, Thanks for the note and sorry for the late reply. I think you could omit the bottom middle piece, but the table is designed for that to provide additional stability so the legs don’t move. If you went that route, I’d recommend using additional 2x4s around the skirt (instead of the 2x2s in the plan) to give the legs some additional blocking. Your other option is to drill a hole for the umbrella in both the tabletop and the bottom middle bar so you could put the umbrella through both holes to keep it standing straight rather than using a separate umbrella base. I think either way would work.
[…] Rustic Farmhouse Table Plans […]
After time has gone by how has the table held up? How much if any did the table top boards warp, expand, etc? Love the table but would like to know how it’s fairing after time.
That’s a great question! My table has held up fine for about 5 years, however I have it in a very stable, climate controlled environment. I did have some hairline cracks in the wood filler between two of the tabletop boards, a couple years into it, but I added some additional wood filler and did a “spot refinish” job and that took care of the problem. BUT… you are exactly right that the wood can expand or contract! I would highly recommend that instead of screwing the tabletop to the table base, that you build the tabletop as a single unit and attach it with tabletop fasteners. This will give the tabletop some “play” to expand or contract. It’s important to note that wood will generally expand and contract width-wise, not length-wise, so it’s the play in the width of the table that’s important. It’s a little counterintuitive, since a lot of people think that the more you screw it down the better, but that can actually exacerbate the problem. Expansion is a function of a number of factors including the grade of the lumber used, how dry it is, changes in the relative humidity in the environment, and probably a few other factors as well. I have not personally had any issues with the wood warping on this or the rustic farmhouse bed, both of which are built with big box retailer lumber.
Ed, that was a great follow up response! Thanks for the update. I’m currently building a bar and plan on using the farmhouse table method for the bar top and want to make sure it will work. Also plan on building a farmhouse table for the wife after the bar is done. Any updated pics would be greatly appreciated if you have time.
Hi Jamnes, I thought you had a great idea on pictures of how it’s held up! I took a few minutes today and wrote a post about it, Farmhouse Table Plan-5 Years Later. I hope you find that helpful and good luck on your bar. I’d love to see a picture of it after you’ve finished the project.
What did you use to clamp the table top? I realize you improvised, but can’t figure what you used. Would be helpful if I knew.
Great question! I used 4 “ratchet tie-downs,” the kind you buy at Home Depot to strap down stuff in a trailer or something like that. Go to the HomeDepot.com and search the term and you’ll see what I’m talking about. You can buy pipe clamps large enough for the table, but that can get pretty pricey for someone that only does the occasional project and I found that the tie-downs worked great and applied the same kind of pressure that the clamps would have. Thanks for asking and thanks for checking out my post!
Hi Ed! Just purchased your plans, I love the detail you put into it. I’m looking forward to starting this project soon!
Thanks Matt, I really appreciate the comment! Thanks for buying and thanks for letting me know. I hope your table project goes great!
Ed
[…] Free plans for making a rustic farmhouse table | a lesson […]
I don’t know if you’re still tracking this post or not but I had a question for you. I’ve made my own tables out of 2x stock before, and the biggest issue I’ve had is that 2x lumber isn’t S4S but rounded on the edges, which leaves a little bit of gap for food to get stuck in, which my kids have a real knack for. It looks like your seams are really tight though. How did you do that? Thanks!
You know what, I went back up to where you used straps to seal, and it looks like you used wood filler! Ok, then. I missed that. Sorry!
Hi Matthew, thanks for the note! You found it before I had a chance to reply. Yes, the 2x lumber has rounded edges – I wish I could find lumber that’s been surfaced on all 4 sides! – and yes, I used a stainable wood filler. You should be able to see a closeup in a couple of pictures on the post to get a sense of what it will look like. If you’re going for a more casual, rustic look it actually turns out quite nice.
I think when he listed wood filler as one of his supplis under finishes and says he uses it for gaps.
Plain the boards down about an eighth inch on each side and you’ll have sharp 90° edges on all the corners, it makes a huge difference I guarentee you’ll be much more satisfied with the finished product. I know all my customers are
I built this table for my wife and she loves it..I also made some extensions for it to have a little more. Area if needed
Hi,
I really loved this design and found a local guy that said he could make it. However, when he delivered it I noticed some of the legs had some splits in them, one being pretty large. He said he would be able to fix it with some wood repair filler, but I’m unsure how that works. In your opinion would filler fix the problem or should he just replace the legs? Also, I did notice the crossbar at the bottom is put to the outside of the table instead on the interior like yours. Another difference is the leg is only made up of 1 solid piece of wood. Could these differences be causing the splitting? I’m just worried about the quality and stability of this table over time, and if you have any input I would greatly appreciate it.
Hi there Kris, so sorry for the late reply. Depending on how severe the splits are, wood filler would work fine. It actually hardens even harder than the wood itself and depending on the brand it can be stained. If the split is 1/3 or more in the wood, I’d recommend replacing the leg. As far as the legs, if the “1 solid piece” is a 4×4 instead of 2 2×4’s together (like mine) then that’s fine. In fact I like that better, it’s just that untreated 4x4s (meaning not pressure treated for outdoor use) are harder to find around home improvement stores. As far as the cross bar, I’m having a hard time visualizing what it looks like. If you want to shoot me a photo, I’ll be glad to give you my thoughts.
Ed
Hi,i wanna make this table for my wife but im unsure about using dowels? How hard is it to use a dowel jig? Im no craftsman but ive used power tools quite a bit. Also,is there any other way to join the top boards without dowels or using a kreg jig? I dont see myself paying that much for a tool i probably won’t get much use of? Thanks in advance.
The dowel jig isn’t hard, but it is a little tedious. A biscuit joiner (a rather expensive tool if you don’t have access to one) is another option, but the 2x6s are a little thick for that. You can also just bolt the tabletop planks to the 2×2 supports underneath (maybe adding another) and that will likely work fine unless you have the table in an environment with significant humidity swings. As for the Kreg Jig, just my 2 cents… I put off buying one because it was always a little too much to spend for a single project. But once I made the plunge, I use mine all the time on virtually every project I do. That being said, if you only do a project every now and then, then there are other ways to accomplish the same thing, it just takes a little longer and is a little more work.
Thanx for the quick response. Im thinking about using counter sunk screws with plugs to fill the holes. Screwing to the 2×2 cross members? I live un se kansas so humidity isn’t a huge issue as i keep my house between 65 and 70 all year long. What are your thoughts on my idea?
Yes, screwing the top planks to the 2×2 cross members. I’d screw then from the bottom so you don’t make any holes on the top surface of the table. I did countersink most of the holes where otherwise the screws would be visible. I think that’s definitely the way to go.
Hi,
I’m from Canada and I’m having trouble finding kiln dried pine that is in the right size. I can find it in 1″ but not 2″ (e.g. 2″ x 4″ x 8″). I can find kiln dried spruce in the right sizes. Would it work to use spruce instead of pine?
Lynda
Yes, actually I think spruce would make a beautiful finish.
[…] Free plans for making a rustic farmhouse table | a lesson […]
[…] Free plans for making a rustic farmhouse table | a lesson […]
[…] Free plans for making a rustic farmhouse table | a lesson […]
[…] Free plans for making a rustic farmhouse table | a lesson […]
how many dowel pins did you use in the 2x6s and 2x8s?
How many dowel pins did you use on the 2x6s and at the 2x8s?
I used 4 on each 2×6. I think I also used 4 on the 2x8s as well.
Hi Ed!
Your table looks great! I love your ratchet strap idea to substitute without the clamps. This gives me a good reason to convince my dad to give me his extra miter saw. All the farmhouse tables look like it’d be difficult to push the end chairs in all the way. Any adaptation ideas? Or isn’t it really a big deal? Is it pretty easy to length this table out to seat 10? We’re a family of seven and usually have a few stray neighborhood kids or friends and family popping in on the weekends. Thanks so much for posting this. I bookmarked your blog.
Oh! You posted a bench, too! Fantastic! That makes it easier to squeeze in a couple extra kids than chairs.
I just realized one of those annoying commenters that didn’t really read through the other comments before asking questions that you may have already answered. Sorry! I’ll read a bit closer. Thank you for reading through mine, too.
Thanks for the post & for the nice comments! AS far as the question about pushing end chairs in all the way, for us it hasn’t been a big deal. I usually sit at the end myself and one of my children always sits at the other end and it’s comfortable for sitting & eating. It does have the cross bar and that’s necessary for this particular design, but we don’t have any complaints about it. And yes, you can easily lengthen the boards and the apron for the table to make it as long as you need. We’ve sat as many as 9 people around our table a couple times… you can squeeze 2 folks together on the ends in a pinch. The bench has been a great addition. It can seat 3 pretty comfortably and for little children you can cram 4, but that’s pretty tight! Good luck with your project.
Hi Ed, great job on your table! My daughter wants me to build her one and I have some questions I was wondering about, if you might have some thoughts on.
1- The size we were thinking were larger both in length and width. Was thinking about 90″ long and 44″ wide. Obviously the apron pieces would need to be about 15″ longer, but for the width I would add an additional 2×6.
2- Was thinking to plane the edges of the 2×6’s a bit if that might help with sealing between the boards?
3- I don’t know where you live but I live in North East U.S. in Ct. and right now avg. temps are mid to low 30’s. What about acclimation?
4- Is there any need to be concerned with the grain of the wood cupping up or down, or 1-up 1 down alternating?
Thanks for the note Sal. You’re right on about adding the length and width. You’ll just need to change the length of the apron pieces accordingly.
Anything to ensure that the edges of the 2x6s are square will help… I think that’s a good idea. I’d definitely use some wood putty to ensure a “liquid-proof” seal between the boards, especially if it’s going to be used as a kitchen or dining room table. If you have access to a planer, you should take advantage of that because it’s really hard to find square and flat wood, especially at the big box stores. The nature of this table, though, is that it’s supposed to have a rustic look, so it’s a pretty forgiving project as far as imperfections in the wood are concerned.
I live in Alabama and we range from really hot & humid in summer to 30’s (and sometime colder) in the winter. My table has acclimatized pretty well, however the temps and humidity inside the house don’t fluctuate that much. You can always use pocket screws (in addition to wood glue) to join the table top 2x6s together to get a tighter joint than using the dowels & glue like I did. I bought a Kreg Jig a few years ago and now I use it on almost every project I do, so I would always do that going forward.
As for the wood grain, I always look for wood that’s as close to center cuts as I can find and I always have the grain as though it would cup down (i.e. the concave side facing down). That’s probably more a matter of preference than anything else. I wouldn’t alternate them though, in case the wood did start to warp over time it could have a roller coaster look. But like I said above, the table is supposed to have a rustic look.
Thanks & good luck with your project.
Great table, you did a beautiful job! I’m working on a similar table (as a total beginner) and have a question… How important is the wood filler between the boards on the table top? I’m nervous that wood filler won’t take the stain the same way as the wood, and won’t the poly (after a few coats) begin to fill in some of the gaps between the boards?
Again, beautiful work!
Hi James, thanks for the note. Here are my thoughts on the wood filler. First of all, the filler is a preference. It doesn’t do anything structural; it’s purely cosmetic. If you use hardware store lumber (like I did) from Home Depot or Lowes, it will not be totally square. So there will be gaps of varying degree between the boards. Personally, I think that leaves an unfinished look, but it depends on what you’re going for. Also, if you have kids, you will have spills that drip through and grime that works its way into the cracks of there’s no filler there. So to me the filler accomplished a couple things. It gives the table a nice finished look, it “liquid proofs” the table top and it also makes for a surface that’s easier to keep clean. I used the Elmer’s Interior and Exterior Wood Filler Max and it took the stain I used pretty well. That being said, my stain was a pretty light one so I don’t know how it would do with a darker stain. You could always test it with some scrap wood. My other word of advice is if you do use wood filler, assemble the table and let it acclimate to your interior environment (i.e. humidity). That way the wood has already swelled or shrunk before you apply the filler and it hardens. It’s possible that the poly may fill in some gaps, but they’d have to be really thin gaps and you’re likely to have more gaps than you think you will. I hope your project comes together well. I think this is a great project for a beginner.
Thank you! That’s great information and exactly what I was looking for. I’ll definitely be using the wood filler, thanks for the help!
Love the table! Our concern is leg room sitting at the head of the table – thoughts?
Hi Leigh Ann, thanks for the post. I assume you’re referring to the cross support at either end. It hasn’t been a problem for us. This is our primary family table for most meals. I usually sit at the head – I’m 6′ & my son is about the same – so we both need a little leg room. Rarely I’ll put my legs over the the support if I just feel like stretching out a little, but most of the time I sit there normally with no problem. The breadboads on the ends have enough of an overhang that we can sit there without even thinking about it.
Thanks for the quick response. I look forward to making my own.
Ed, I am building the bench right now and attaching the bench top from the bottom through the apron skirt and supports. The boards I am using are about as straight as you can hope for from a home depot lumber pile but they are still causing a bit of warping when I screw them on. The base is square before I attach and after I attach the top one of the legs is up about a 1/4 inch (I am attaching each of the top board separately). Do you have any ideas other than planing the top boards?
Thanks,
Jeremy
Sounds like the bench seat is your problem. Another option may be to use a small shim to compensate for the 1/4″. Also, when you’re done you can put some felt pads underneath the legs of the bench. They’ll protect hardwood floors and will also help absorb any remaining minor differences due to warping.
Thanks for sharing..bookmarking this page with the goal of building my first farmhouse table…
I am going to extend the length of the side pieces from 57.5 to 72 inches so I can seat three people in a space of 24 inches each vs the 19 as the table plans show.
I am also going to add a board on the outside of each side that will add addional support to the peice on each end. As it is only resting on about 1.5 inches and maybe has a few short dowels connecting it
Yes, 72″ is the better length, but that wouldn’t fit in my kitchen. Would love to see pix of your final project. Good luck. It’s a great table plan.
Ed- I’m finishing up a farmhouse table that my wife found on the Ana White site (http://ana-white.com/2012/11/plans/triple-pedestal-farmhouse-table). I plan on attaching the top after staining, as you did, but I’ve become concerned about just screwing the top to the frame because of all I’ve read today about wood movement (expansion/contraction due to moisture). Are you concerned about your top splitting over time? This is my first project so I’m not sure what to expect or if all the fancy table top attachment hardware that allows for movement is necessary. Would love to hear your thoughts. Thanks!
First off, that’s a really cool table! I need a good excuse to build one! As for securing the tabletop, I haven’t had any problems with screwing the tabletop onto the base. That being said, I’ve got pretty consistent interior temperature/humidity; environment certainly makes a difference. But it’s certainly not a bad idea to use a fastener such as this one. It definitely can’t hurt, although I haven’t personally used them. But if I can come up with the right opportunity to build this one, I’ll likely give them a try.
Stupid question, but how easy is it to take apart to get it through doors? Looking over the construction, it looks like the legs come off by just removing a few screws?
The way I constructed it, you can detatch the the tabletop from the base. That also made it a bit easier to finish the base. There are quite a few screws securing the tabletop from the underside, but I wanted to be able to remove the top if I needed to. That being said, you can actually get it through most standard doors by turning the table on it’s side and carrying it without having to detach it.
If I may ask, how much did this project cost all together? Nice work!
The total wood & hardware/supplies bill was around $250 & I got everything at Lowes. That doesn’t count any tools needed though, so you’ll want to go through my list of necessary items and make sure you have everything. I tried to list our everything that I used in the project, even the little stuff. Thanks for stopping by & for the comment!
love the table and hope to start building one in the near future. however, i was wondering how important the middle beam on the bottom (57.5″) of the table truly is. I’m thinking of trying to create a leaf extension table…but to do so I would need to not include the bottom beam.
Great question! The middle beam is designed for stability of the table. You could leave it off, but you would need to add some reinforcement to the legs at the base o the table. The design is pretty sturdy, but I’d recommend some blocking and possibly modifying the design to use 4x4s instead of the 2×4 combo for the legs. I’d love to see your final design if you make it extendable. I’ve been thinking of a similar design myself.
Hey there,
Honestly, I’m a bit confused on how you did this. Reading your plans, I’ve noticed that your blueprint reads 1/2 inch short on the width of every single piece–including the notches for bottom support. Did you really go through every board and cut it down 1/2 inch? If not, will you please explain to me how you might have done this? I’m hoping to build a table for my parents within the next few days before christmas.
Thanks
Hi Mike, thanks for stopping by. You’re probably referring to the 2×6 pieces that make up the majority of the table top. The difference is that standard pieces of 2×6 pine lumber that you buy at Home Depot or Lowes actually measure 1 1/2″ thick by 5 1/2″ wide. So even though they are called “2×6” their actual measurements need to be taken into account when creating a plan. While the differences vary among cuts (i.e. 2x8s are really 1 1/2 x 7 1/4) you need to account for them when building the table. The SketchUp model that I built is the actual measurements. Does that help?
Hi Mike, I hope you were able to make some progress on your table project. I just updated the post with links to a matching bench. Good luck!
Hey there,
I am very technical but do not have patience. Was looking around how to make a map for a html dreamweaver website I have. Saw your interactive map – best yet – but I do not have the patience to create one and learn other software. My project map is for aviation and would like to know if you would like to contribute a US map creation. Would send people to your site with who it was created by.
Thanks
There’s a link to a US map in the tutorial that may work for you. It is in an Illustrator format and is quite good. It can also be easily modified.
what color stain did you go with for the table? looks great!
Thanks for the note! If you could see it in reality it would look even better. The camera doesn’t do it justice as far as being able to see the stain effect. For the finish, I used Minwax Early American 230. I sampled a lot of different stains and even tried combining a couple, but this gave a really nice finish that wasn’t too light or too dark and had what I thought was a “classic” look.
I used a Cabot Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner first. Then after applying the stain itself (I ended up applying 2 coats of the stain to get a little richer finish), I used the Minwax Fast-Drying Polyurethane in a clear satin finish. I added some pictures to the end of the post to see exactly the products I used.
Thanks for stopping by!