Rustic Farmhouse Nightstand

 

I am working on my next project, a rustic farmhouse nightstand to match my rustic farmhouse bed.  Since I finished the bed, we’ve been on the lookout for a nightstand to match, but haven’t found anything that we particularly like or will fit next to the bed.  The few options that we sort of liked are pretty expensive, so here’s a shot at a design that I created to make use of some wood I’m reclaiming from some old shelves that I’ve removed from my garage.

The space next to the bed is fairly tight, so this nightstand is fairly small with a top measuring 16″ wide by 16″ deep.  Also,

I sized the plan with specifically so that I can use commercially available 1×12 lumber, which actually measures 3/4″ x 11 1/2″.  It’s important to remember nominal lumber sizes when building your stuff or your plans won’t match the lumber available at the store (or my plan here!).

You can download a SketchUp model of this plan here or by clicking on the graphic above.

I’ve also created a printable PDF version of this plan which you can purchase for $5 (it’s about 22 pages in all).  It’s all the info from the blog posts, but I’ve compiled it for easy printing and included shopping lists, cut diagrams and helpful pictures.  Basically, if you want a handy printable version so you don’t have to get sawdust all over your computer, you might consider purchasing this download.

Wood List:

• 1″ x 12″ x 8′
• 2″ x 2″ x 10′
• 2′ x 2′ 1/2″ plywood panel
• 2′ x 2′ 1/4″ plywood panel
• 3′ of 1/4″ x 1 1/8″ pine lattice.  This is usually sold in strips that are cut to the length you want.

Cut List:

1×12 Board

• (2) 8″ x 16” – Top boards
• (2) 1x 7 3/4” x 11 1/4” – Cabinet Side panels
• (1) 1x 7 3/4” x 12” – Cabinet Back panel
• (1) 11 3/4″ x 6″ – Drawer face
• (4) 1x 2 x 12” – Face frame supports & bottom shelf
• (1) 11 1/4″ x 15 – Bottom shelf
• (2) strips of 1x board 10 1/4″ x 3/4″ – Secret compartment

1/2″ plywood

• (2) 10 3/4” x 5” – Drawer box
• (2) 10 1/4” x 5” – Drawer box

1/4″ plywood

• 10 3/4 x 10 1/4 – Drawer bottom
• 10 1/4 x 9 3/4 – False bottom

Other

• 4 2x2s – 27 1/4” Legs
• (1) 1/4” pine lattice 11 3/4″ with mitered ends
• (1) 1/4″ pine lattice 6″ with mitered ends

You will also need a 10″ Drawer Slide for the nightstand drawer. I couldn’t find one that small at Home Depot or Lowes, so best to order from Amazon or go to a local Woodcraft store.

Below is a diagram of the cut list using an 10′ 1×12 piece of wood.  For my nightstand, I used pine even though it’s a pretty soft wood.  I’m painting mine to match the bed, so the top is in 2 pieces.  If you want the top to be in one piece, then buy an 8′ board and buy the 16″ x 16″ top as a separate piece of wood (you’ll probably need to go to a lumber yard for that since you usually can’t find hardwood pieces wider than 12″ at Home Depot and Lowes).  The legs are cut from 2x2s and I’ve added pine lattice trim on the drawer front for the model.

I made the drawers out of 1/2″ plywood with a 1/4″ plywood bottom.  I think that 3/4″ thick wood is just too thick for drawers.  You can, of course, make the whole thing out of plywood if you want to.  This will be fine, especially if you’re going to paint it.  However if you plan on staining the nightstand, you’ll probably want to use 1x boards.

Click here to download a Sketchup model of the cut diagram.

I used the following tools for this project:

• Table saw
• Skil Saw (for cross cutting)
• Miter/Chop Saw
• Kreg Jig
• Drill
• Router or Dado blade for table saw (This is optional.  If you don’t use a router to make dado grooves for your drawer bottom, then you may need to adjust/reduce the drawer height by 1/4″ to compensate for the bottom panel of the drawer)
• Biscuit Joiner (this is also optional, I just really like using it!)
• Electric Hand Sander (80 grit for removing some real imperfections in my wood; 120 to prepare for priming/painting)
• Wood Glue
• Various size clamps
• Don’t forget the eye protection!

Step 1 – Cut & prep the wood

This part is pretty self explanatory, but take it from me, the project goes a lot easier when you cut and prep everything before hand.  I’m the most impatient guy in the world, and it’s an act of sheer willpower to get everything ready before I go assembling stuff, but I’ve done enough of these projects now to know the value of having a plan/model and getting everything ready before starting to actually assemble it!

Step 2 – Assemble the base

This is pretty straight forward.  First assemble the 2 sides by attaching the side panels to the legs with pocket holes.  Use wood glue and make sure your joints are square.

Assemble the bottom shelf of the nightstand again using pocket holes (or a biscuit joiner and wood glue.

 

Here are the left and right sides assembled.

Next, attach the back panel to the sides and screw the bottom shelf onto the legs.

 

You will need to use clamps when attaching the various parts using the pocket hole screws, otherwise the screws will push the wood apart & you won’t get tight joints.

Next, attach the face frame to the front of the nightstand.

Here’s my stand once I’ve gotten the base attached.  Next step will be the bottom shelf.

Step 3 – Add the bottom shelf

Note that the bottom shelf consists of a main board and 2 1″ x 1 1/2″ pieces to keep the bottom shelf flush with the legs.  This is more preference than function.  I just like the way it looks and since I’m painting the nightstand, the seams won’t be noticeable.

 

Step 4 – Assembling the Drawers

Now it’s time to build the drawers.  I prefer to build the drawers out of 1/2″ plywood.  I think using the 1x lumber makes the drawers too bulky.  The drawers in this model are constructed with plywood boxes and a 1x face panel that will be inset into the face frame.

First, use a router or dado blade on a table saw and cut 1/4″ grooves along the bottom edge of each panel 1/4″ from the bottom.  This will be for the drawer bottom panel to slide into.  Then attach 3 sides of the drawer box.

Next, insert the drawer bottom, made from 1/4″ in plywood or project panel.  I find that it’s helpful to sand the edges of the 1/4″ bottom panel to bevel the edges.  This helps the panel slide into the dado grooves better.

Then attach the front panel to complete the drawer box.

If you’d like to make a secret compartment, attach 2 strips of 3/4″ wood to each side of the drawer and slide another 1/4″ plywood panel on top.  I just used wood glue to attach the strips of wood.

Here’s a front view of the secret compartment with the front panel of the drawer box hidden:

Before attaching the drawer face to the drawer box, go ahead and attach the trim to the drawer face panel.

Step 5 – Finishing the Nightstand

Now you’re ready to attach the drawer face.  Because this is an inset drawer, I suggest that you install your drawer slides on the nightstand cabinet first, then with your drawer box inserted into the nightstand, use wood shims to ensure even spacing between the drawer face and the face frame of the nightstand.  Once you have the drawer face positioned in place, drill a hole through the face panel and the drawer box where you will attach the drawer pull.

I also like to wait until the very last step to attach the top (which you’ve assembled by attaching the 2 pieces with either pocket hole screws or biscuits).

And there you have it!  A rustic farmhouse night stand to match your Rustic Farmhouse Bed.

Here’s the final product:

If you like this plan, you can either print out this entire blog post or purchase my PDF print version for $5.

The plan download includes a handy shopping list, cut list and lots of diagrams of the project (it’s about 25 pages in all).  You certainly don’t need it to build the nightstand, but if you want a nicely formatted printout to use in your workshop/basement/garage and to take to Home Depot or Lowes when shopping for supplies, you might consider it.