I’ve been looking for a project to make use of some really cool ceramic tiles that I’ve collected and decided that they’d make really unique and stylish end tables. First I needed a basic end table design that would be elegant enough for a nicer living room setting, but could also be dressed down for a more casual setting. As with almost all of my plans, I’ve used materials that can be readily found at big box home improvement stores.
I’ve used 2×2 pine boards for the end table legs, but because I wanted a more refined look, I tapered the legs by cutting slight angles on 2 of the faces instead of leaving them with a straight look which would certainly fit a more rustic look.
This project is good for teaching a couple new woodworking skills. First is the aforementioned tapered legs which involve using a table saw and cutting angles. The second skill is using pocket holes to make T joints, in this case, on the face of the legs.
This is a basic design that can easily be modified in any number of ways, height, table top size, tapered legs or straight legs, and so forth.
Materials List
- 2 – 8′ 2×2 pine boards
- 1 – 8′ 1×3 pine board
- 1/2 sheet of 3/4″ plywood (4′ x 4′)
- Your choice of 8″ x 8″ decorative ceramic tiles, 4 for each table
- 12′ of 1/2″ x 2″ project boards – These are available in a variety of wood species and can usually be found in 3′ lengths. For 2 end tables, you’ll need 4 boards. If you prefer slightly thicker trim, these boards can also be found in a 3/8″ thickness.
Cut List
- 8 – 2x2s @ 23 7/8″ (4 for each table)
- 8 – 1x3s @ 10″
Taper Jig
To make the tapered legs using a table saw, you’ll need to make a jig that will allow you to cut the legs consistently at the appropriate angle. Here’s a list of the materials and a video showing how to make the jig and to make the cuts.
- 2 pieces scrap 2×4 lumber, 24″ long
- Hinge
- 1/4″ threaded screw inserts – This is a link to a 40 pack on Amazon, but you can also find these in the specialty fasteners area at most home improvement stores.
- Threaded Knob – This is a link to a 10-pack on Amazon, but you can also find these sold individually in the specialty fastener area.
- Paint stirrer (or strip of 1/4″ wood)
- 1 1/4″ Wood screws
Tapering the legs
The hardest part of this design is tapering the legs. To do that you’ll need a jig to make the cuts and in the video below I’ll show you how to do it.
Cutting the Material
Making the Base
I’m constructing the table base with 1x3s and the 2×2 legs. In the photo below, I’m using a simple jig to make repeated cuts of the 1x3s at exactly the same length (10″).
Using my Kreg Jig, I’m drilling pocket holes in the 1x3s. I’ll also go ahead and drill pocket holes perpendicular to the top to attach the top.
Before attaching the table supports to the legs, I’ll mark the edge with a 1/4″ offset.
The, using a Kreg clamp, I’ll attach the 1×3 supports with wood glue and pocket hole screws.
Making the Tabletop
I’m using a simple jig to cut a sheet of 3/4″ plywood into squares for the tabletops.
For each of these tables, I’ll lay out the tiles and mark the length and width with a pencil. That way I’ll ensure an exact fit for the tiles.
Attaching the Tabletop
For these tables, I prefer to attach the plywood top before adhering the tiles and adding on the trim. I find it easier to apply the tile adhesive this way.
Now the table is prepped for tiling. I’ve found that it’s easier to tile the tabletop before adding the trim than the other way around.
Adhering the Tiles
Different people apply tile adhesive different ways. Here’s how I do it. For the adhesive, I’m using Mapei Type 1 tile adhesive for the tile adhesive and I start with a thin layer on the tabletop.
Next, using the flat edge of a notched trowel, apply a thin layer of mastic to the tile and then, with a notched side at a 45 degree angle, comb the adhesive to create channels. This allows to escape from under the tiles so that there aren’t any air pockets and the tiles adhere completely.
Lay the tile on the tabletop using hand pressure and a bit of a side to side motion so the back of the tile gets full coverage with the adhesive.
Once the tile is all laid, I’ve wiped down the edges and left the table to fully set, it’s time for the trim. You can use either 1/4″ or 3/8″ project boards depending on the look you want. The thickness of the table tops will usually be around 1 1/4″ if you’re using 3/4″ plywood base and standard 8×8 tiles.
You can save a few $s by getting a 3″ or 3 1/2″ project board and ripping it to size with your table saw. Then, using a miter saw to cut the 45° corners, measure and cut each piece of trim individually. Attach them to the tabletop using wood glue and brad nails. Clamp them in place until the glue dries in order to get tight corner joints.
Sanding & Finishing
I’ve found that it’s a lot easier to sand the leg and the supports before assembling the base of the table, and then sand the trim once you’ve completed the table.
Here are several different styles finished with a variety of stains and paint finishes. If you’re interested in purchasing any of these tables, visit my Etsy store.
